Most new players pick up a paddle the way they would pick up a hammer — full fist, white-knuckle grip — and wonder later why their shots feel harsh and their forearm is sore after an hour on the court. How you hold a pickleball paddle affects far more than comfort: grip style changes how much control you have at the net, how easily you can switch between forehand and backhand, and how much shock transfers into your wrist and elbow on every contact. This guide covers the standard grip styles, how to size a grip correctly, and how grip choice interacts with the paddle itself.
The continental grip: the default for most players
The continental grip is generally recommended as the starting point for new players because it does not require a grip change between forehand and backhand shots, which matters enormously in the fast exchanges that happen at the non-volley zone line ("the kitchen"). To find it: hold the paddle out in front of you as if you are about to shake hands with someone standing across the net, then wrap your fingers around the handle so the base knuckle of your index finger sits on the top bevel of the grip (the flat surface directly in line with the paddle face edge). This is sometimes called a "hammer grip with a slight rotation" and gives a neutral face angle that works reasonably well for both dinking and volleys.
The eastern forehand grip
Players who lean heavily on forehand groundstrokes, particularly those transitioning from tennis, sometimes prefer an eastern forehand grip, which rotates the hand slightly further so the paddle face closes a bit more on the forehand side. This can add pace and topspin potential on driving forehands, but it typically requires a grip adjustment to hit a clean backhand, which costs time during fast net exchanges. For players who play primarily from the baseline or in singles, where there is more time between shots, this trade-off is often acceptable; for doubles players spending most of a point at the net, it usually is not.
The two-handed backhand
Tennis players moving to pickleball frequently bring over a two-handed backhand, supporting the paddle with the non-dominant hand for extra stability and power on backhand drives. This can work well for players with an existing two-handed tennis background, but it is generally discouraged for fast net play, since removing a hand to switch back to a one-handed volley or reset shot takes precious time when the ball is already traveling back across the net. Many coaches suggest two-handed backhand players still practice a one-handed continental grip for volleys specifically, using the two-handed technique only on backhand groundstrokes from further back in the court.
Grip pressure: the detail that matters more than grip style
Regardless of which grip style you use, grip pressure has an outsized effect on both control and arm health. Many players report a tendency to grip far too tightly, especially under pressure, which stiffens the wrist, reduces feel on soft shots like dinks and resets, and increases the vibration transmitted into the forearm on hard contact. A commonly cited benchmark is to hold the paddle at roughly a 4 or 5 out of 10 on a tightness scale — firm enough that the paddle will not twist in your hand on contact, loose enough that your wrist can absorb some of the shock. Tightening the grip briefly at the moment of contact on power shots, then relaxing again, is a technique worth practicing deliberately.
Grip size: often overlooked, easy to fix
A grip that is too large restricts wrist snap and makes it harder to generate spin; a grip that is too small can cause the paddle to twist in your hand on off-center contact and increases strain on the fingers and forearm. A simple sizing check: hold the paddle in your normal grip and see if you can fit the index finger of your other hand into the gap between your fingertips and your palm. If there is no gap, the grip is likely too small; if there is more than a finger's width of gap, it is likely too large. Grip size can usually be adjusted with an overgrip layer without needing to change paddles, which is a low-cost fix worth trying before assuming the paddle itself is the problem.
How grip interacts with the paddle itself
Grip technique and paddle selection are connected. A heavier paddle amplifies the cost of poor grip pressure, since more mass is moving and needs to be controlled on contact and decelerated on soft shots. Players who struggle with grip fatigue or minor arm strain often find that switching to a lighter total weight, alongside correcting grip pressure, resolves more of the discomfort than grip technique alone. If you are evaluating paddle weight and core thickness as part of addressing grip fatigue, our materials and construction overview explains how core thickness affects shock absorption, which is one of the physical factors that interacts directly with grip comfort.
A quick self-check routine
- Confirm you are using a continental grip by default, switching only deliberately for specific shots.
- Check grip pressure during a rally — aim for firm but not white-knuckled.
- Verify grip size using the finger-gap test above.
- If your forearm is sore after most sessions, check both grip pressure and paddle weight before assuming it is a technique-only issue.
Grip is one of the few technique elements a player can correct in a single practice session, and it tends to pay off immediately in both control and comfort.